Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Katie's Visit and Dipnetting

This summer brought so many fun visitors up to Alaska. Next up after my parents was my good friend from Texas A&M, Katie. She teaches at American schools abroad and I got to visit her over in Dubai last year.. so I was super excited when she booked a ticket to come see me in Alaska this summer. She is one of my favorite travel buddies and I can't wait to visit her next year in Colombia!

She came up with her brother Patrick, who lives in Denver, and therefore is a super awesome outdoorsy guy. We started off strong with the ambitious Twin Peaks hike overlooking Eklutna Lake. The hike was definitely a tough one, but the views on top were spectacular. There was a lot of fireweed in bloom, which is the most beautiful flower that grows all around Alaska. It reminds of the the Texas bluebonnets, except its a super vibrant pink color and stands out amongst all the green. It's a really interesting flower because it blooms from the bottom up. And they say once the blooms reach the top, summer is over. Luckily, it wasn't even quite halfway bloomed on our hike :)

Base of the lake

Birch trees galore

Katie and Patrick in front of the Twin Peaks

Lovely hike

Beautiful view amongst fireweed of Eklutna Lake from the top of Twin Peaks

We then continued north to the cabins at Hatcher's Pass, easily one of my favorite places in Alaska. This was my third time to go and I've gotten to experience all seasons there now! We woke up the next morning and explored the Independence Mine site up the road. Katie kept referring to is as District 12 from the Hunger Games. It's crazy to imagine only 50 years ago this area was a little booming gold mine town.

District 12 aka Independence Mine



Ruins amongst the beauty of Hatcher's Pass



After exploring the mine, we took the short hike up a hill to the spot where the old houses used to be. It was a nice switchback trail that claimed to be "family friendly" which was good because of all the hiking we did the day before at Eklutna Lake. There were a ton of earthy mounds along the trail that had me convinced we were in Hobbiton (maybe I'm a little obsessed with Lord of the Rings haha). It was such a nice surprise to find a really beautiful hidden lake atop the trail.

Stroll through Hobbiton

Hiking up the "family friendly"

Beautiful lake atop the hill

Katie and I


She's so strong 


Katie and Patrick spent the week down in Seward while I was working. When they returned, we decided to check out a bit of Anchorage night life. It doesn't really compare to Houston by any means, but there are a few gems in Anchorage. We started off with happy hour at Glacier Brewhouse and then headed to Bernie's, which has a really big outdoor patio and we listened to two live bands! By this point it was getting pretty late, although you couldn't tell by the 11pm sunshine. So we ended up at a few other places throughout the night dancing the night away. It was so fun to catch up with Katie and show them a little bit of everything in Anchorage!

I've been taking advantage of the concerts up in Alaska this summer because I definitely miss the abundance of live music I used to have access to in Houston. One of the bars here sponsored a summer concert series and sectioned off a block downtown for the monthly shows. In July, the headlining artist was Grouplove! I was really excited and convinced my friend Emily to join me for the concert. They put on a great show and we had a lot of fun dancing and taking selfies of a selfie (a new concept that Katie taught me haha).

Grouplove!

Emily's new friend

Legit selfie of a selfie

Our posed selfie of a selfie

Joe Dirt came to the concert

And this guy wouldn't stop dancing behind me

So windy! And 11pm sunlight

We couldn't get too wild that night because I helped plan a group outing the next day to go dip netting. This is quite a treat in Alaska and something I've been looking forward to for a whole year because you must have resident status to partake. The dipnetting window is really short (July 10 - July 31 only), but essentially any resident who has lived in Alaska for over a year can get a permit to catch up to 25 salmon with a big net. I'm not super into fishing because I get sea sick and standing around with a rod all day is kind of boring to me. But dipnetting seems so much more exciting!

So we rallied up the crew for a 4am departure down to the mouth of the Kenai river to catch some salmon with the incoming tide. Emily found a place to rent chest waders that allow you to walk chest deep into the water without getting wet. They were super stylin and I felt very rugged wearing them haha. I was also pretty bundled underneath since it was a chilly morning. The dipnets we used were 5ft in diameter and with pretty long poles that were definitely easy to drag around. We finally made it to the beach with all our gear around 10am and found a great spot to set up right as the tide was coming in. It could not have been a more beautiful day with the volcanoes visible across the ocean.

Mt. Redoubt volcano

Me in my spiffy waders and dip net

Super Alaskan girls

Ready to catch some fish!


We didn't have a net for everyone, so I took one of the first turns out in the ocean. Since the tide was out, the sand and mud flats were like "quicksand" and my boots would sink in every step. It was a workout just to walk out into the water! I got my net set up vertically and caught a fish within 3 minutes. It starts yanking on your net and then you are supposed to flip the net down to trap it and drag it all the way into shore (another super intense workout). I was so excited when I felt it tug my net that I didn't know what I was supposed to do next! One of the experienced guys was yelling directions and I made it all the way to shore before I realized I flipped my net the wrong way and the salmon had escaped :( So on attempt number two it took a couple more minutes but sure enough I caught another salmon and super quickly flipped my net the right way. Emily actually caught two in her net at the exact same time!

Emily and I dragging in our salmon - so tiring!

Almost got them in

Yay I caught my first fish!

And then I stunned it with a club

Wahoo first catches of the day

Girls fishing in the Kenai

I then traded my net with someone so that I could begin the scary part - gutting the fish. I still can't believe I did this myself as I'm super queezy when it comes to blood and gross things in general. But I'm definitely being more adventurous in Alaska so I figured I would try it out once. I said my goodbyes to the fish and thanked it for letting me catch and eat it haha. It was so slick and hard to hold on to, but I finally got it steady... and then off with it's head! After the head removal, you have to gut it on the bottom so that the meat stays fresh. That was actually more gross than the head removal! Then you toss all the guts back into the ocean and store the fish in a cooler.

Beheading my salmon

And then gutting it

Still smiling, must be thinking about how good it will taste!

Some people were catching fish left and right, but I only successfully caught one. It was a really fun day though, and definitely an Alaskan experience! We stopped at St. Elias Brewing Company in Soldotna for some celebratory drinks before heading back to Anchorage to fillet and vacuum seal the fish. I ended up with several meals worth of red salmon, which I've been definitely enjoying!

Enjoying a well earned flight after fishing

Successful day!

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Barrow Whaling Festival and Family Visit

This summer has been a whirlwind and I know it's been quite awhile since I've blogged about all the exciting things going on so I'm going to break it up into a couple posts... So rewind back to June and celebrating Emily's birthday. My good friend Emily is from the Carolinas and her husband Matt planned a birthday low country boil in their backyard, which are very popular at Clemson where they went to school. It was basically like the crawfish and shrimp boils that I'm familiar with in Texas, but with the addition of spicy sausage, yum! They boiled up shrimp, potatoes, corn, and sausage with some spices and it was all thrown onto a table covered in newspaper and cocktail sauce. It was quite tasty and a good way to bring the south up north and celebrate with Emily.

Emily's birthday low country boil

We have had some fabulous weather days this summer, but they have been mixed between a few rainy days as well. Luckily it doesn't really downpour rain here in Alaska, so the misty rain isn't too terrible. But on the wonderful days, I feel guilty staying inside. So during the few weeks I haven't had visitors to spend my time with this summer, I made sure to get outside to take advantage of the nice weather! One of my favorite quick after work hikes is Flattop because it is only 15 minutes from my house and gives me a cardio boost and lovely views.

Weekday flattop hike

I experienced my first Summer Solstice in Alaska on June 21, the longest day of the year! I moved up June 24, 2013 so I was a couple days late last year. The day started off with the Mayor's Half Marathon, which most of my friends ran in. So Erin, Erin, and I decided we would make a party of it since we weren't running. We made signs the night before and were troopers going out in ponchos to cheer on our friends. Despite the rain we had a great set up with a jammy pack playing some tunes and mimosas. It's far more fun to cheer people on running while a little tipsy than actually running a half marathon, I'd say we won there. We continued to celebrate the solstice with a free concert downtown by the Spin Doctors and dancing the night away downtown. I have to say I never saw the sun fully set, even by 2am!


Cheering in the rain





One of the most interesting cultural experiences I've had in Alaska was a trip up to Barrow, the northernmost town in the USA. The villages up on the North Slope of Alaska practice subsistence hunting, meaning they hunt for food as a way of life. Therefore, they are the only ones allowed to kill whales for food. Every year they have whaling festivals in which the whole village gets together to celebrate the capture of their whales for the year. Part of my work project's permit requires us to bring up fresh fruits for these festivals, so I got to attend one this summer.

Barrow - Top of the US

Essentially, the whole community sets up a tailgate of sorts and brings coolers and chairs and gather round for social time. The whaling captains divvy out the whale, always starting with the elders. They show so much respect for the elders in these villages, which is wonderful. They even get to board the planes first ahead of frequent fliers. The festival takes several hours as different whale parts are passed around (flippers, fins, blubber, skin). It is customary to taste each of the parts being passed around and then package away several portions in your cooler. Out of respect, I wanted to try everything, but little did I know that the first course was part of last years whale that has been fermenting in blood for a year. That was by far the toughest thing I've ever eaten!

Setting up the festival

Year old fermented in blood whale

Giving it a try

Whale fin

The festival was a lot of fun and the kids throughly enjoyed the blanket toss that was set up in the center of the crowd. The blanket toss is essentially a large animal hide that is sewn together which launches people in the air. Everyone gathers around and grips the ends of the hide and toss someone up, kind of like a trampoline. Historically this was used so the villagers could look out into the ocean and spot the whales, but now its just a traditional celebratory game. The people of Barrow were welcoming and appreciative of the fresh fruit we brought up. We stopped by the local grocery store after the festival and I quickly understood why, the prices were astronomical!

Blanket toss

$18 fruits

$19 orange juice

We also toured around the village a bit and got to see some of the remnant whale bones as well as meet some of the local artists. Baleen is a very popular type of art found in lots of Alaskan homes. Its kind of like whale teeth since they filter the plankton. It's illegal to have baleen unless its been carved and signed by a native, since they are the only ones allowed to kill the whales.. similar to the rarity and special nature of ivory tusks. I'd say the wildest part of the trip is that the sun literally never set since we were so far north in the peak of summer, it just circled around the sky above us!

In Barrow with some of my coworkers


Whale jaw bones

Whale bones next to the Arctic Ocean

Baleen aka "whale teeth"

Decorative baleen

Signs to cities around the world, Austin was on it!

The same day I returned home from Barrow, I headed back to the airport to pick up my parents and Ryan! I was so excited to welcome them to my home and give them a taste of Alaska. We started off the weekend with a scenic river float down the Kenai River. We saw so many eagles it was unbelievable! The drive down to Kenai along the Turnagain Arm is one of the most breathtaking drives, so I always enjoy taking people just 10 minutes outside of Anchorage to get a glorious view of the mountains. On our way back to Anchorage, we stopped at the Wildlife Preserve for some bear, elk, and moose viewing, which is always a treat while they are safely behind fences.

Scenic drive down the Turnagain Arm

Ryan with the Belugas

Getting ready for our float

Floating the Kenai River

Eagle #1


Eagle #2

Eagle #100


Lots of fishermen lining the shore

Big moose!


Elk pack

Caribou

The next day we headed North up to Eklutna Lake for some hiking. It was a really pretty day with wonderful views of waterfalls, peaks, and the lake. I think everyone was getting a bit tired from all the walking we were up to.

Waterfall hike

Feeling the water temps

Taking in the views

Lake Eklutna

Parentals

The next week while I was at work, they headed up to Denali via the train. Despite the cloudy weather, I think they still had some great scenery and wildlife sightings. Once they got back in town, I took my dad and Ryan up to Flattop. My dad made it up 3/4 of the way but decided to stop and enjoy the views of Mt McKinley while Ryan and I trekked up the rock scramble to the top. When we got back to the house, my mom had cooked us a divine feast of king crab legs, my favorite Alaskan meal!

Moose sighting on the way to Denali


Flattop

Halfway up overlooking Anchorage

So many steps

Up and up

3/4 of the way up

Climbing up the final rocks

Cheers at the top

Exploring the 360 views from the top

Very pretty

Heading back down

Crab crawl

We made it here

The next day we packed up and headed to Seward for the long 4th of July weekend. We stopped at the Exit Glacier, which is the only glacier in Alaska you can drive to. It's only about a half mile trek from the parking lot to get right up next to it! There are year markers along the drive and hike indicating how much the glacier is receding in about 20 year intervals. The glacial blue ice is so pretty to look at and it was really neat to see it so close.

Waterfalls from melting glaciers

Exit Glacier

Mom and me close to Exit Glacier



Every 4th of July, Seward hosts the Mount Marathon race. The course is about 3 miles round trip up a 3000' mountain right in the middle of the city. It's so popular that there is a lottery to get a spot in the competition. This year Seward was experiencing record high temps (in the 70s). We were all loving the beautiful sunny day since we had great views of the runners racing up the mountain. The racers cross the finish line very muddy and sometimes with scrapes and cuts from the steep trail run. It's super impressive as the leaders finish in 30-40 minutes! After the race, my mom and I checked out some of the Seward shops and found a pie stand. That was the day I fell in love with rhubarb pie! I had no idea such a tart delicious treat existed and now I'm obsessed. Anytime I see rhubarb on the menu, it's going down. After the parade and festivities, we went back to the hotel for a delicious wine and cheese spread and to watch some soccer since the World Cup was happening at this time.

Mt. Marathon

And the racers are off

Here comes the winner

Happy 4th of July from Seward, AK

Beautiful day

Yummy snack spread in the hotel

We took a boat tour out of Seward that weekend as well. Ryan, dad, and I went early to do a little kayaking in the morning. We saw some porpoises, starfish, and got to explore the coast a bit. I kept looking over at Ryan and dad's kayak and I think Ryan was doing all the paddling while my dad was taking in the views :) My mom met up with us on a later boat and got to see some whales playing around in the water! Ryan, dad and I were really jealous since we didn't get to see the whales. The rest of the day we spotted tons of wildlife - sea lions, otters, seals, starfish, jellyfish, puffins, and a bunch of birds.

Sea kayaking crew

Ryan and Dad kayaking 

Starfish at low tide

Lunch break off the boat

White and gray seals

Playful otter

Sea lions lounging

Mom and me on the boat

Penguin birds

On the way back to Anchorage, we stopped near Portage to check out some more glaciers. We took a short hike with some beautiful fireweed flowers and even got to climb over some snow. It was a nice scenic end to our long weekend.

Fireweed blooming

Walking to the glacier

Cool tiered glacier

Mom walking over the ice

Hanging out by the glacier

Glacier chunks falling off into the lake

The rest of my family's time in Alaska was spent just hanging out, watching movies, playing board games, and taking some walks around my neighborhood. It was so nice getting to see them up here, especially when I feel so far away sometimes. My parents did a lot of handy work around the house for me too :) They fixed my stove, hung some curtains, planted some flowers, and hung a wind chime. They even cleaned up the house for the next round of visitors I had coming in 2 days. I'm spoiled sometimes!

Pretty hanging flowers

New flower pot on the porch

It was really sad to say goodbye to my family, so I kept myself busy by doing a few home improvements before my friend Katie arrived. I decided to paint the inside of my door leading to the garage. I had seen this idea on Pinterest since if you paint the inside of your door then you actually get to enjoy it from inside of the house which is way more often than the outside. I picked a bright blue to tie in with some of my artwork and to give a nice pop of color to bring cheer in the winter. More summer updates to come soon!

My new door